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anacondas

Anaconda Diving...Into the Black. PART ONE.

I posted today on Social media, a photo from a trip we ran, back in September of 2021.

We were in Brazil diving with anacondas.

On this particular day we were on a beautiful river in Bonito, Brazil.

The water was gin clear, and the scenery was spectacular.

We were slowly cruising down the river looking for snakes. We were watching the edges of the river, as well as the river banks for any snakes that might hiding in the water, or basking in the sun.

We finally found one on the river bank. She was a big 5-6 meter long snake. She was so beautiful lying there in the sun.

We slowly approached, but she dropped in the water to hide from us.

AND hide she did!

When you are a big snake in super clear water it should be impossible to disappear. But these snakes are territorial, and she knows the area she lives in well.

Snakes this size get big by being smart and cautious.

The area she has chosen to live in is surrounded by a forest. The river has a lot of trees, tall grasses and forest debris along the edge of the river, so she disappeared fast.

The search was on, we didn’t want to lose her.

We began searching the edges of the water with masks and snorkels to try and find her.

I checked underneath a tree right at the bend of the river and could see her large body tucked up deep underneath.

WE FOUND HER!

Our snake in her hiding spot. To the right of her, you can see her breathing hole. To the left, the river opens up.

It was a shallow area, but she was tucked in tight, so we had to put on scuba tanks to go where she was at.

This snake was hiding in a massive hiding hole she found or created that was behind a tree growing in the water.

It was dark and deep with a small breathing hole, which allowed her to hide indefinitely.

We swam underneath the tree that was half-grown, in and on the river bank. It led to where she was safely tucked away.

It was a tight area, so we took turns, so it would be less intimidating to the snake. A bunch of faces all trying to look at her in here hiding hole might stress her out. We did not want to do that.

I admit it was a bit unnerving swimming in there.

It was dark, and the water was silted up from her moving around in there. You could see her massive body, but you couldn’t see her head.

So we had to wait for her to settle down before we could inch in and see where she was.

She was just laying there, occasionally swimming up to the surface to get a breath of air.

Once she did, she would swim back down and curl up again.

These snakes are so calm and well-behaved. Nothing like we are led to believe.

She was relaxed and never got aggressive with us.

Yes they are predators and yes they are dangerous and must be respected, but interactions like these prove that if done with respect, we can co-exist. They truly are such a polite predator.

She eventually left her cave and swam along the edge of the river searching for one of her spots where she exits the river to slither back into the forest.

We continued to follow her and I am so glad we did, we managed to capture some epic images of this iconic predator…

PART 2 COMING TOMORROW.

Anaconda Diving Video

We finally created a vlog from our anaconda diving expedition. This was one of the best days I have experienced here in the water. It was an amazing time spent with good friends in an epic setting with amazing wildlife. This was taken from day three of our second week in Brazil. I am going to be cutting a couple more videos from this trip, but for now, here is this one. I hope you enjoy!

Anaconda Diving 2021 Photo Gallery

Brazil is a special place. The wildlife here is some of the most incredible you will ever encounter in our magical wildlife world. I love everything about this fantastic place, and I truly feel honored that I get to spend so much time here. It never feels like it's enough time, though. I leave always wanting more.

Sadly, they were working on re-cabling the internet at our hotel, so it was not working properly, which meant I could not share as much as I usually do for a trip like this, which kills me because something was going on every day. From troops of capuchin monkeys feeding and hanging around our hotel to giant anteaters seeking out food in the fields we were driving by on our way back to the lodge at the end of the day, to ponds filled with caiman, and we are talking about 200 plus caiman on the river banks. This place is just amazing.

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We did have some magnificent snake encounters this season which was the main reason we visited Brazil. We ran two trips back to back. During our first week out there, we had one big female and a few male anacondas. Our female had recently eaten a capybara or a tapir, and she was so full she could barely move. It is impressive to see how her skin can stretch to accept prey that big in her body. Mind-blowing really. We spent a few days with her, but we were respectful and were careful not to stress her out. She was so lethargic from having eaten her meal that all she wanted to do was sleep.

Snapping an image of our big girl. You can see a bit of her face on the left. Image by Daniel Degranville

We found three big females and a dead one during our second week out there. While on the river, we found a dead six-meter snake in the river. Juka, our boat captain, saw her the previous week with some severe injuries after trying to catch and kill a peccary. Peccaries live in family groups, and the snake was mortally wounded by family members trying to help their kin escape, while our snake was trying to kill it - sadly she did not survive the encounter… it is the circle of life.

Juka snapping our big dead girl. Kinda filthy, but still cool.

Juka snapping our big dead girl. Kinda filthy, but still cool.

After we saw that snake, we were all gutted, thinking that this would be our snake encounter for the day. But we continued searching the river for more wildlife and found another snake ( alive one of course), basking in the sun on the river bank. We spent an epic two hours with her. It was the kind of encounter you dream of having when you plan a trip like this. It was so great.

I really wish I had better signal while I was out there, because damn what an adventure it was. One of our best Brazil outings to date.

I am sharing this photo album I put together of both the wildlife and Behind the Scenes images of the fantastic moments we had out there. It was such a great trip. A huge thank you to our friends who joined us out there and made it special. Love you guys.


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One of the highlights of the trip was crawling into an anaconda snake hole and capturing unique images of a resting snake.

One of the highlights of the trip was crawling into an anaconda snake hole and capturing unique images of a resting snake.

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Brazil and the HIGHS and lows of travel life.

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September 7, 2021 - I am in Brazil. No words can express how blessed I feel to be back in this magical place. I have been dreaming of returning here every day since the last time I was here. This is one of my most favorite places in the world. I should be over the moon with excitement. Sadly the truth is I am not. Recent family events have cast an enormous shadow on my excitement of being here and leaving home. Getting on that plane yesterday afternoon was one of the hardest things I have had to do in a very long time.

Thankfully no one has died. No one is sick. It is just a very low moment for me and my loved ones… I could put on a game face and pretend that all is perfect in my world, but that would not be right. Part of sharing the travel life is sharing those low moments as well. On the bright side… I am hoping for some amazing news from home that will remove this dark cloud, but until then, I sit in my hotel room in Campo Grande, over thinking things and working hard to muster up some good vibes to send out to the universe.

From our 2018 expedition.

From our 2018 expedition.

Anyway, off my soap box and onto some details about why we are here, and why you read this blog. It is that time… anaconda diving. Yup, it is time to go seek out the largest slithering reptile on the planet, the green anaconda. The largest green anaconda on record was 29 feet long (8.8 meters) and 550 pounds. Now that is one giant ass snake. I hope that our guests who are joining us for this trip find a few snakes like this to swim with.

Unfortunately, they are not easy to find, and each year, thanks to poachers, fear, and ignorance, they are becoming more scarce. Thankfully the private lands we visit during this trip protect the snakes there. So they do have some refuge here in Brazil, which is amazing.

Green anaconda from our 2018 expedition.

Green anaconda from our 2018 expedition.

Like every trip we run, these are wild animals not from a zoo, so we have to search for them, and nature is nature - she is going to do what she does, and sometimes is not very kind. Thankfully we have been fortunate on our trips here, and I feel terrific about our chances of seeing some big girls. The females of the species are the ones with size. The males are normal-sized snakes. So with some luck, which we have on our side, we will find some snakes.

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So the adventure begins tomorrow! I arrived a day early to ensure that I would get here on time. Unlike my Dominica flights, things went smooth - no late flights, an empty row for my 9-hour plane ride, no crazy customs, and no missing bags… it was nice. Our friend Pooja arrived here in Campo Grande with me, and tomorrow morning, we pick up our buddies Julian and Stefan at the airport and go off to Bonito.

The new adventure begins… now all we need are some giant snakes, and some good news from home.

Thanks for reading.

MY EPIC FAILURE!

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The boat slowly approached two mating anacondas. The boys quickly and as silently as possible threw on their gear. One by one they slid off the boat and into the water. The snakes, aware of their presence, broke off their courtship and swam in different directions. The boys chose the biggest of the pair to follow, an 18 foot long beauty. They filmed and photographed the snake as it silently swam away from them. The encounter was brief but everything we all had hoped it would be. This moment was exactly what I had been dreaming about since I first learned that it was possible to swim with anacondas in Brazil. A dream come true!  This was also just the first encounter of a perfect week of diving... Sadly, I was NOT there for any of it!

September 22 - San Fransisco International Airport. I arrived at the airport late for my flight. I screwed up on my departure time, so a nice final breakfast with Maritza, Sophia and our buddy Larisa, turned into a mad race towards the airport in an effort of getting me on my flight for Brazil. I made it with seconds to spare. HOWEVER, when I was checking in for my flight, the airline attendant asked me for my travel visa... My heart sank. My eye's wide with fear, I responded, "What do you mean travel visa?" She then told me that for americans to fly to Brazil, a travel visa was required. I told her I didn't have one. She looked at me, handed back my passport and said, "Sorry, you are NOT going to Brazil today." 

I was stunned. I have never needed a tourist visa for any of the countries I have visited in the past, so that caught me completely off guard. I started scrambling, trying to see if I could get one in a hurry. It turns out, that I needed to get it through the Brazilian Consulate. However, they wouldn't be able to get it until Monday, because they are closed over the weekend, ( today was Friday ). That meant I wouldn't get it in my hands until Tuesday. Which meant I couldn't fly till Wednesday, and I wouldn't get to my group until Friday. Which was the final day of the trip.

I.. freaking.. screwed.. up.. badly! I sat down, head in my hands, just devastated. I missed the window for my trip, I disappointed our friends who joined us. This trip was one that I had been dreaming about for a very long time. I was gutted.

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Thankfully, my good friend Jorge Cervera Hauser, who was joining us on this trip picked up the reins and led the group. The week would of been so much harder without his help. And I am happy to report that the Brazil trip was a smashing success. They had 3 days with an 18 foot anaconda, mating anacondas, jaguars, caiman, river otters, families of capybaras. Just everything we had hoped the trip would be. Of course, I wasn’t there to see it this season, but that is the price I paid for my American vanity and stupidity. Everyday, the boys updated me with the trip and how it was going. I received image after image, of an epic wildlife adventure. I was extremely excited for them and so damn happy that the trip was a huge success. But I was also dying inside, wanting desperately to be there with them, to experience it all. For that, I will forever regret. 

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The trip ended and everyone one went safely home. I was ever grateful that the boys had the adventure of a lifetime. The images I am sharing from the trip are all Jorge's pics… and they are all just stunning! We are of course planning our trip for next season already and I can say this with confidence, I won’t make that same epic mistake next season... and I WILL be there for all of it!


Images by Jorge Cervera Hauser